If money is no object, then the Neo-Geo AES is the choice for you. While the system itself won't set you back more than $500 for an unmodded and unboxed console (with appropriate hookups), a complete in box console will cost upward of $800. And a modded system that will work with different, more modern AV types will cost between $400 and $1000 depending on options. For some reason US consoles are more sought after in the 2023 collector market despite having some serious drawbacks that I'll cover below. It's not the price of the console that is the barrier of entry, though. No, that goes to the price of the games. 

Neo-Geo AES games are vastly more expensive than other Neo hardware variants or even any other retro game console. To be frank, what is affordable to Neo-Geo AES collectors could be the difference of having food to feed your family for a few weeks, or even months to a year for many, many people. Titles which released in 1990 – 1995 are mostly reasonable in price, with many of the more popular titles in this date range costing between $80 and $150 USD for a complete Japanese version. Beginning in 1996 SNK began producing far less AES games compared to years prior, and the prices reflect that. While you can still get some must have titles like King of Fighters 98 or Real Bout Special for under $350, be prepared to pay well over $500 for many of the console’s best titles from 1996 - 2004. For example: unless you truly have money to burn, you’ll have to skip the entire Metal Slug series - which would cost you roughly $50,000 to have all 6 games that released on the AES - and that's just the Japanese versions. I'm not exaggerating.

If that doesn’t sound expensive enough, US and European game variants were produced in far fewer quantities, so expect to pay at the very least double the price of the Japanese version for any game in the library (if a Western version exists). Many, many US titles are FAR more expensive, though, costing the collector thousands (yes, thousands) more than the Japanese variant. On the low end, a $350 game like Real Bout Special in Japan becomes a $10,000 game for the US version - yes, you read that correctly. On the high end, that Metal Slug series example I mentioned above? For a US branded set, that'll be well over $100,000! At the end of the day, whether you purchase Japanese or US versions of games, having a full set of official releases - or even a select few games - is still only a pipe dream for many, many fans.  

All Neo-Geo AES games use the exact same PCBs and Mask ROM Chips across regions (aside from a few exceptions), so the only difference in the games is the language on the case insert, the manual, and the cartridge label. Due to this, all games have multiple languages and censorship modes included for all regions in all copies of the game. As the AES is a region free console, the language displayed, and even censorship is dictated by the region coded to the console's bios chip and not the game itself. 

This is the sticking point with US consoles versus Japanese consoles. Japanese consoles will display the game in Japanese, but generally will not have any censorship. Most games have an option to switch the language to English, so this is largely a non-issue for the vast majority of games. Because these are arcade games, all the important information is often in English regardless - aside from some Quiz and Mahjong games. US/Euro consoles will display games in English, but many games include seemingly random censorship you cannot remove with a stock console. For example: games like Samurai Shodown 2 display with green blood, and Mai’s breast bounce animation is eliminated in many King of Fighters games. Curiously, other bloody games like the Last Blade 1 have no censorship.

If you would like an AES for easy hookup to your TV, you’re also out of luck. While the console does support RGB SCART right out of the box if you have the correct cable and display, you will still need some sort of intermediary device to hook up the Neo to a modern display. Thankfully there are a litany of options, but at the very least you’ll need to budget an extra $100 to $700 depending on the device you choose. Additionally, the composite video out on the console is crap, so even if you hook up your AES to a CRT (old tube TV) you'll want to explore getting at least an S-Video mod for cleaner output.

Additionally, consoles with a serial number above 200k or so have a video output issue called "jailbars" which degrade the quality of the video by a significant margin even if running via RGB. This can be fixed on these late model consoles, but seeking out an earlier release console will eliminate the need to fix this unsightly issue. Very early models of the AES also run on a very picky 5v power supply, while later production models run on a more standard 9v supply. The early 5v models will brick completely if using any more than 5v, so you must be extra careful. There are numerous caveats to this rule, but generally you'll want a console with a "Pro-Pow 3 or E" moniker on the serial number sticker to denote the 9/10v consoles. Check out this excellent primer from FirebrandX on AES PCB. 

Finally, there are a few options for those that just want an AES for hardware accuracy but don’t care about collecting the physical games. Most retro consoles have a cartridge device that allows you to put the entire rom collection for the console on an SD card and select the game you want to play from a list. These SD cartridge solutions cost an average of $300 or more new and run into the thousands if used (as they are often in short supply). You can also get MVS adapters which allow you to play the (vastly cheaper) arcade versions of the games on your AES. There are a few more options you have when purchasing AES games, like conversions or reproductions, and the 161-In-1 cartridges. Check out the How to Buy Games article for more information on these options. For more detailed information on the MVS/AES, check out the full review.

I recommend the AES for these types of gamers:

• • • The Collector: AES games are works of art inside and out, look amazing on a shelf or display, and command high prices due to two main factors: quality and scarcity. You want the best of the best, and you want to be able to show off your collection. You also might be looking at this collection as an investment. You only buy games complete and in Very Good to Mint condition - you also may want a few graded games in your collection just for bragging rights. You may play your games from time to time, but their value is often more important to you than the experience of using the product so you play from an SD cartridge or other solution and keep your AES games in transparent plastic cases for further protection. If you like spending money on high-priced goods to impress a niche audience on the internet, this is your golden ticket to the upper echelon of retro video game collecting. 

    • The Nostalgic Gamer: You are a gamer first - collector second, but you have an emotional attachment to the AES. And you were most likely lucky enough to have had an AES in the 90's. The ritual of opening up one of those sturdy, beautiful, SNK emblazoned snap-lock cases, carefully removing the behemoth cartridge, and playing one of your favorite games is an experience you can't quite describe - and AES games are worth the extra money to you to retain that experience. You don't care too much if the games are mint. In fact, you'd rather have a few blemishes on the games to ensure you keep the price down. You value the time you spend with each game, and having authentic games to play in your archive is of upmost importance to you rather than just having an expensive conversation piece sitting in your bookcase.